Old Town Cartagena

Mamapache

Totumo - Mud Volcano from Julia Scheri on Vimeo.

Playa Concha

After spending Valentine´s day in the local air conditioned super market food court with torn up stomaches from too much comida typico and that damn pineapple with worms in it, we decided to have a romantic getaway to a nicer beach.  We headed to Tyrona National Park and basked the day away at Playa Concha.   Thanks and much respect to captain Luis for the boat ride back into town through crazy swells along the rocky shore line.  The tiny wooden boat was at serious risk of being swallowed by a wave or sharked by one of the many protruding rocks along the way.  

Checking out.....

www.ecosirena.com

Adios Peru

Our time in Peru is coming to an end.  The last leg spent in the southern section included many amazing locations in a very short amount of time.  Just traveling around getting to the desintations we´ve been to gave us the chance to see an amazingly diverse landscape.  Cusco, Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchu, Puno (Lake Titicaca), Arequipa, Colca Canyon are some of the amazing destinations we have been to in the past 12 days since leaving the surrounding area of Huaraz in the Peruvian Andes.  It´s been truly amazing to see the diversity of the landscape in Peru.  From the Amazon, to the Andes mountains, through the southern coast, deserts with incredible sand dunes, and ending in the temperate highlands surrounding Cusco and Arequipa.

Exploring the ruins located out side of Chivay in the Colca Canyon, the second deepest in the world

Making friends in Chivay, note the similar expressions.  This llama was only three days old and so tired, Julia was the same from the many overnight bus rides.

 In the past 12 days we´ve spent around 67 hours on buses (mostly overnight) in Southern Peru.  While some buses weren´t exactly ideal in terms of comfort, these times offered a more rich experience and perspective into the rural Peruvian way of life.  Sometimes a little bit of a sacrifice (comfort) works in our favor when looking back.  On another note, I can´t exactly provide an accurate count of how many Frac bars where consumed in Peru.  Maybe its a good thing you cant find them in Colombia...

Sing song

Uros Women Song from Julia Scheri on Vimeo.

Titicaca



At 12,500 ft above sea level, Lake Titicaca is the highest and largest (118mi. by 50mi.) commercially  navigable lake in the world.  The most interesting part about the lake is the people who live on the artificially built islands, such as Uros.  We had the experience of seeing how the islands were built and its truly amazing.  The islands are created in layers, the first layer is a bouyant, root bound soil layer that is harvested in small square blocks (3ft tall) from shallow parts of the lake.  The next layer consists of totora reeds found growing abundently in the lake.  The reeds are layered another 3-5ft on top of the soil layer and are the top surface of the island. The totora reed is the primary material used for the island, all of the structures, and boats.  The reeds have to be replaced frequently, especially on the roofs of the structures (every 6-8 months) and take about a month to dry for use.  One question that wasn´t asked or answered was where do all the number 2´s go?  I was bummed I didn´t get to take a swim.

Uros, Lake Titicaca from Julia Scheri on Vimeo.



Structure showing the dried reeds.  Looks flammable and what about high winds?  Their houses are lifted off the primary surface to reduce the humidity. 



The main form of transportation for the Uros people.  They call it the Mercedes-Benz.  It looks like a wicker toy.



A small portion of the Uros islands, much larger than I expected.  They have everything they need to sustain out here, the Mercedes-Benz for transportation, two schools, a more permanent medical building, and a live- stock area with pigs and cattle roaming around.  The Uros created the island settlements originally as a form of defense from other tribes such as the Inca.  Today they carry on the traditional way of life and choose to live on the lake.

The president explaining how the islands are created 

Machu Picchu

Highlights:

- Hiking to the main gate (fast) with the 50 others at 4am to get a spot to hike Waynupicchu

- Observing from a psychological perspective, what happens when 50+ people under 30, Hike at 4am to get a position in line with "respect" haha.  Single file? Almost, some elbows were thrown.  Humans are competitive by nature.

-Entering the ruins with no people, rising fog, and a camera.

Touristy experiences such as this, at one of the most popular tourist desinations in the world, helps to put into perspective how much I have enjoyed and valued the time we´ve spent on this trip so far.  We have gone relatively under the radar visiting amazing places with no tourists while spending time with locals.  While  visiting Machu Picchu was one of the most amazing places I´ve been to, it was hard to feel the energy when it got crowded after mid-day.  One bit of advice if visiting, be there before the gates open.  This is a place to definately not miss if traveling in Peru.

Touristico

Put your blinders on to the hoards of people offering tourist services and random goods, seek out cheaper food deals, and Cusco is a beautiful little city.  Tomorrow we do what we came for, the big one (Machu Picchu). We will see if it lives up to the hype!

Peruvian wear

Murals and art everywhere

I have my eye on the Chicharron joints (deep fried pork)

Plaza de Las Armas Church

Hatun Machay

Our final outing in the Huaraz area, we go 1.5 hours south to Hatun Machay to do some sport climbing.  This place is amazing and we had it all to ourselves, no one around but the refuge keeper, Coco and the owner Andres.

Sheep doggy

Rock Forest, this time of the year the fog roles in around 1 or 2 and shuts us down

The Refugio

Good weather greets us in the am when the fog burns off

Julia cruzing a small nubbin hold route (5.10b)

At the bottom

Warm in the sun, perfect climbing temps, and looking good

Said to be pre-Inca, but undetermined nomadic tribe heiroglyphics in one of the many caves in the area

Last meal in Huaraz before heading to Cusco, Sex burger.  I had been looking for this joint since we got here, a standard place for people to go after a long day (or days)  playing hard in the mountains.  Here the Royal Burger comes with egg, cheese, and french fries all in one package.  The grand comes with an additional chicken patty and hotdog.  What!

Getting High

Nevada Vallunaraju, that's the one

Through the Cravasse field

A pause before another Ice bridge crossing

On the summit ridge

On it! The locals call the one on the left K2, crazy no-name knife ridge peak to the right

Stoked!

Looking down at Llaca Valley

Descent, muy rapido!

Huascaran, the highest peak in Peru (22,205 ft)

Vallunaraju on the left, view from the hotel in Huaraz

High above Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca we climb Vallunaraju (18,963 ft).  It snows 4 inches at base camp early in the night and our summit dreams become a little unsure.  We awake at 2am to clear weather which sparks hope and we carefully climb our way up the granite slabs coated with a sheet of ice to the bottom of the glacier.  We dash for the summit, run down before 9am, and get some Lucho's homebrew at Cafe Andino to end the day.  Amazing.