A Magical Journey - Machu Picchu

Such a rewarding experience! After seeing the flocks of tourists in Aguas Calientes lining up to buy their bus tickets for the next day, we decided it would be a more ¨grounding¨ experience to hike it. We knew it would be hard for us to be in such a touristy place (although here I am with my sunhat, camera around my neck, oh wait a fannypack? and of course Chris has a map open...) so we decided to do everything we could to try to connect with the site in our own way. 3:30am, we set out with our new side-kick, Jason who we adopted for the weekend, for the half hour trot to the bottom gates. With our headlamps, we walk around huge landslides and struggle to hear eachother because of the rushing water of one of the most powerful rivers I have ever seen.

There was already a line forming at the bottom gates! The first 200 people to reach the top get a special ticket to hike Waynupicchu; the mountain that overlooks Machu Picchu. Of course we were determined to hike this mountain, and so was everyone else waiting here in the rain at 4am. Very interesting situation. Everyone was young, fit, and from countries all over the world. So funny watching people trying to size up their competition when everyone is wearing ponchos! So our spiritual ¨connecting¨ hike up the mountain ended up being a rat-race, but comical to say the least. The guard opened the gate and reminded everyone (frothing at the mouth) that this is a spiritual place and we all need to walk with respect. Single file in the order that we arrived, and no passing on the trail because it is also very dangerous. The first 200 to arrive can go to Waynupicchu. HA! I was amazed at our speed on this almost hour long march up the mountain, competition setting in. The path was mostly steps made of stone going STRAIGHT up, some were so high that the next step was up to my waist! People were dropping like flies, asthma attacks, stepping out of line because thay just couldn´t keep up... of course we marched on. Everytime I thought I was going to die, I thought of Vallunaraju and this path felt like a piece of cake! We arrived at the top gates around 5:15am just in time for the sunrise. We were numbers 3, 4 and 5 to hike Waynupicchu.

Being some of the first to enter the park, and well before the bus loads of people arrived, we witnessed Machu Picchu at its greatest. The sun was still rising, the rain had stopped, and the fog hung around the ruins adding such a mystical feel.... I love the fog so much! It was incredible, the way I felt with the first glimpse of this Incan paradise, I cannot explain in words. It was so crazy to imagine this place in its hayday, thinking of the people that have walked these paths so long ago. What kind of tool did these people have? These structures are amazing! Aligned perfectly with the sun, every stone chizzled so evenly. This first hour was the most amazing time spent within the walls before it became littered with tourists, crying children, screaming parents, littering teenagers and Australian bloques talking about girls in the bar last night. Grrrrrrrrr, unfortunately it was difficult to experience the site in the same way with all the distraction that came later on. It felt like Disneyland.

 

At 7am, we began our hike up Waynupicchu. It took us less than an hour and again was STRAIGHT up. Unfortunately, the mountain seemed to be a little too tall and we ended up ABOVE the clouds. We were hoping for an aerial view of Machu Picchu from the top but all we could see was WHITE. What we learned on this hike was that it ended up being not about the view at all, but the hike up the mountain. I guess it was kind of like "It´s not about the destination, it´s about the journey". Exactly. The clouds were beautiful, we sat on the edge of some ruins at the top and just looked out into nothingness. Peaceful. It rained for a while, so we huddled under our ponchos and shared snacks with Jason, it didn´t seem to bother us one bit. When the rain let up, we hiked back down to the main site. We felt so priviledged to have reached the top of that mountain, even if we had to throw a few elbows to get there...

 

The experience was incredible, even though it pretty much emptied our wallets (NO way to do this voyage on a budget, NO way). I think we will appreciate it even more with time as we reflect on our photos and read more about the history of the Incas. We do realize, and have vowed never to forget how fortunate we are that we have been to all of these places. We will never take for granted these amazing opportunities and are forever grateful.....

Machu Picchu

Highlights:

- Hiking to the main gate (fast) with the 50 others at 4am to get a spot to hike Waynupicchu

- Observing from a psychological perspective, what happens when 50+ people under 30, Hike at 4am to get a position in line with "respect" haha.  Single file? Almost, some elbows were thrown.  Humans are competitive by nature.

-Entering the ruins with no people, rising fog, and a camera.

Touristy experiences such as this, at one of the most popular tourist desinations in the world, helps to put into perspective how much I have enjoyed and valued the time we´ve spent on this trip so far.  We have gone relatively under the radar visiting amazing places with no tourists while spending time with locals.  While  visiting Machu Picchu was one of the most amazing places I´ve been to, it was hard to feel the energy when it got crowded after mid-day.  One bit of advice if visiting, be there before the gates open.  This is a place to definately not miss if traveling in Peru.

Touristico

Put your blinders on to the hoards of people offering tourist services and random goods, seek out cheaper food deals, and Cusco is a beautiful little city.  Tomorrow we do what we came for, the big one (Machu Picchu). We will see if it lives up to the hype!

Peruvian wear

Murals and art everywhere

I have my eye on the Chicharron joints (deep fried pork)

Plaza de Las Armas Church

Gente de Cusco

Hatun Machay

Our final outing in the Huaraz area, we go 1.5 hours south to Hatun Machay to do some sport climbing.  This place is amazing and we had it all to ourselves, no one around but the refuge keeper, Coco and the owner Andres.

Sheep doggy

Rock Forest, this time of the year the fog roles in around 1 or 2 and shuts us down

The Refugio

Good weather greets us in the am when the fog burns off

Julia cruzing a small nubbin hold route (5.10b)

At the bottom

Warm in the sun, perfect climbing temps, and looking good

Said to be pre-Inca, but undetermined nomadic tribe heiroglyphics in one of the many caves in the area

Last meal in Huaraz before heading to Cusco, Sex burger.  I had been looking for this joint since we got here, a standard place for people to go after a long day (or days)  playing hard in the mountains.  Here the Royal Burger comes with egg, cheese, and french fries all in one package.  The grand comes with an additional chicken patty and hotdog.  What!

El Refugio - The Rock Forest

Coco, Aymara (the pup), me and Chris at the Refugio

Giant rocks simply dropped from the sky and plopped onto this piece of sacred land outside of Huaraz. It is called Hatun Machay (meaning ¨Big Cave¨ in Quechua). The natives here believe that these huge mute giants are their protectors and the energy here is very powerful. You can find caves everywhere with ancient carvings and heiroglyphics. The earth below you feels hollow and there is believed to be an elaborate underground tunnel system with ancient tombs. There have been ongoing debates for years about a possible excavation of the site but the locals fight to leave it intact. Many also believe that the carvings came even before the Inca, and belong to nomadic tribes who used this place as a pilgrimage site so the different cultures from the region could congregate. So much unknown, I believe this rock forest has many secrets...

Cave carvings and a little meditation

The locals do however have a deal with an Argentinian guy named Andres who runs a little Refuge near the rocks. Climbers are allowed to come for a small fee that goes to the community, and as long as we respect the site, we can continue climbing. The climbing is unbelievable! The mornings are perfection and you can see no other structures (besides the Refuge) for miles. The Refuge is very simple, made of wood and stone, no electricity. There are bunk rooms up top and a fireplace and kitchen below. Perfect opportunity for catching up on journaling, reading, and finding your peace. Without fail, around 1 or 2pm a thick blanket of fog rolls in over the hills. You can lose your way very easily, you can´t see much further than your hands in front of you! We always kept a dog with us because they never fail to find their way home.

Aymara soaking up the sun

Waihra would never lose sight of the Refugio

There is a Refuge keeper that is always changing. A few months back it was our friend Xavi from Spain who we spent Christmas with in Colombia (that´s how we learned of this place). Now the keeper is a young climber named Coco who was so excited to have guests! He climbed with us everyday because it is the low season and he said if you stay out there long enough alone, you can go a little crazy. I believe it, there is seriously nothing for miles but the giant rocks that seem to adopt different forms with the light of the moon and the fog. HOWEVER, the owner told us that if we ever want to come back and take care of the Refuge, he would even pay us! Chris could do some guiding and chopping wood for the fire, and I would handle the cleaning and communication! When nobody is around we could just climb all day! There are so many sport routes and bouldering as well. Ahhhh the simple life. We told him we´d keep it in mind for a possibility down the road. There are no showers or even a refrigerator, but a crystal clear little creak that runs right by the Refuge!

Chris climbing hard

Of course there is no telephone out there, so you can´t exactly call a cab. We walked over an hour and a half with all of our climbing gear and packs to get to the main road to catch a ride back to Huaraz. Talk about a desolate highway, I thought we would be there all day! Fortunately we accidentally hitchiked. In our defense, we thought the white van was a collectivo (a shared ride van taxi) so I was jumping up and down flagging it down. Turns out it was just a nice peruvian family who welcomed us into their already jam-packed car for smooth cruising and some good tunes back to town. Buena gente.



Chris at the top of a seashell! (5.10d)

Man, it was so peaceful out there, it is hard to jump back into the city life. We finally left Huaraz last night and are currently in limbo in Lima for a few more hours. It´s so crazy and chaotic here! Taxi drivers are very aggressive and will follow you for blocks, you have to clutch your bags tight; a very different vibe than in the mountains. We hop on another bus to Cusco this afternoon and by the time we get there tomorrow afternoon, we will have spent almost 40 hours in transit... ayayay. Looking forward to Machu Picchu! May the journey continue...

Chris flew up this route! (5.10b)



Coco climbing, Chris on the belay. (5.10b)





Getting High

Nevada Vallunaraju, that's the one

Through the Cravasse field

A pause before another Ice bridge crossing

On the summit ridge

On it! The locals call the one on the left K2, crazy no-name knife ridge peak to the right

Stoked!

Looking down at Llaca Valley

Descent, muy rapido!

Huascaran, the highest peak in Peru (22,205 ft)

Vallunaraju on the left, view from the hotel in Huaraz

High above Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca we climb Vallunaraju (18,963 ft).  It snows 4 inches at base camp early in the night and our summit dreams become a little unsure.  We awake at 2am to clear weather which sparks hope and we carefully climb our way up the granite slabs coated with a sheet of ice to the bottom of the glacier.  We dash for the summit, run down before 9am, and get some Lucho's homebrew at Cafe Andino to end the day.  Amazing.